Egypt’s Ancient Antiquities by Philip Beck
By: Philip Beck
From the trip: Nile Valley Highlights
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In December I had 9 days to take a trip and I chose Egypt with Peregrine Adventures. Egypt has always been on my must see list and the trip did not disappoint. This trip takes in the major sights of Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan with a Nile River cruise.
My group was on the small size with seven people total… all Aussies except for me. The age ranges were 23 to 49. Our tour leader was Egyptian with a degree in tourism.
Upon arrival at Cairo airport at 2:00 AM there was a rep waiting for me with a sign and helped me whisk though customs. I already had my single entry to visit Egypt and that saved me at least 45 – 60 minutes at the airport in the middle of the night. I was taken on a fast ride though the city to my hotel room. I booked 1 night prior to the tour to sleep in and get over jetlag. As I checked in I had a note from my tour leader advising me of the 6:00 PM tour briefing the next day.
On the first full day we were with an excellent local guide and we visited the inspiring Great Pyramids – the last standing wonder of Ancient Seven Wonders of the World.
During your time at The Great Pyramids of Giza, there is no escaping the mysterious Sphinx, a symbol which has come to represent the essence of Egypt for thousands of years. With the body of a lion and the head of a king, there is as much mystery surrounding the Great Sphinx. Not to be missed it a special on site Solar Boat Museum. Stretching 150 feet (46 meters) in length, some of the boat’s timbers are made from whole cedars of Lebanon. The prow sweeps upward, with a papyrus end, while the bow curves inward and is tipped with a carved papyrus blossom. The boat’s state of preservation is remarkable and is considered one of the most fantastic finds since Tutankhamen’s tomb.
That night (after a late check out) we boarded our overnight train to Luxor.
After an early arrival and early check in to our hotel we took a horse drawn carriage to the Karnak. The Temple of Karnak is actually three main temples, smaller enclosed temples, and several outer temples. This vast complex was built and enlarged over a thirteen hundred year period.
In the Luxor area we also went to the fascinating area of the Valley of the Kings and we visited 3 tombs with spectacular hieroglyphics.
We left Cairo and drove a few kilometres where we boarded our boat The Rosetta for three nights. The scenery was very beautiful with views of villages, desert, fisherman, and the ever present blue sky.
We had stops along the way at Edfu to visit the Temple of Horus. This is not only the best preserved ancient temple in Egypt, but the second largest after Karnak. It was believed that the temple was built on the site of the great battle between Horus and Seth. There are numerous reliefs, including a depiction of the Feast of the Beautiful Meeting, the annual reunion between Horus and his wife Hathor.
On one magical evening just as the sun was setting we visited Kom Ombo The temple is built on a high dune overlooking the Nile a short 5 minutes walk from where the boat docked. The Temple known as Kom Ombo is actually two temples consisting of a Temple to Sobek and a Temple of Haroeris . Everything is duplicated along the main axis. There are two entrances, two courts, two colonnades, two hypostyle halls and two sanctuaries. There were probably even two sets of priests. The left, or northern side is dedicated to Haroeris (sometimes called Harer, Horus the Elder) who was the falcon headed sky god and the right to Sobek (the crocodile headed god). The two gods are accompanied by their families.
We then set out very early the next morning for the highlight temple of the whole trip. Abu Simbel. Perhaps after the Giza pyramids the great temple of Abu Simbel presents the most familiar image of ancient Egypt to the modern traveller and reader. When the conservation efforts to preserve the temple from the soon-to be built High Aswan Dam and its rising waters were begun in the 1960s, images of the colossal statues filled newspapers and books. The temples were dismantled and relocated in 1968 on the desert plateau, 200 feet above and 600 feet west of their original location. The massive facade of the main temple is dominated by the four seated colossal statues of Ramesses. These familiar representations are of Ramesses II himself. Each statue, 67 feet high, is seated on a throne and wears the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. The axis of the temple is arranged so that on two days of the year, in February and October, the rising sun shoots its rays through the entrance and halls until it finally illuminates the sanctuary statues.
Next is Nefertari’s temple (Ramsss II’s Nubain wife). It has a single pillared hall, with carved Hathor heads atop the pillars. On the sides facing the center of the hypostyle; Ramesses is shown smiting his enemies and offering before various gods, while Nefertari is shown, graceful and slender, with hands raised. Three doors lead to a vestibule with ancillary rooms at either end. The bus ride / convey there was easy and comfortable and fast. The desert scenery on the way back was fascinating and really beautiful.
In Aswan the Nile is at its most beautiful, flowing through amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants. Explore the souk, full of the scent and color of spices, perfumes, scarves and baskets. View the spectacular sunsets while having tea on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel (Named due to the location of the Nile’s first cataract located here). Aswan has been a favorite winter resort since the beginning of the nineteenth century, and it’s still a perfect place to get away from it all.
We had time that afternoon for a relaxing felucca ride on the cataract area. That night after a great visit to the markets we took another night train back to Cairo.
Our last day was spent visiting Islamic Egypt with a visit to the Ibn Tolon Mosque and The Gayer Anderson Museum. Gayer-Anderson filled a renovated merchant house with his collection of Oriental furniture, glassware, crystal, carpets, silks and embroidered Arab costumes. He also collected beautiful furniture and works of art from Turkey, Persia, Syria, and other Oriental locations. By doing this, he made his house into a historical treasure for anyone who loves Egypt and the Middle East in general. The house represents an excellent example of what life was like for wealthy merchants in Egypt during the 1700’s. What an end to a fantastic trip.
Peregrine did a great job. Our leader and all the local guides were really knowledgeable, they knew how to handle small problems and they worked well in the team.
Philip Beck
Vancouver, Canada
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