Galapagos & Ecuador Explored
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Ecuador’s most beloved and popular national park lies in remarkable isolation, approximately 960 kilometers off of the mainland. Made famous by Charles Darwin, the Galapagos Islands are no less fascinating now than they were a hundred years ago. I feel very fortunate to have the opportunity to join the many curious visitors who have made the journey to these remote islands to see the incredibly variety of wildlife that inspired the Origin of Species.
We arrive in Baltra after a two and a half hour flight from Quito on Tame airways and are met and transferred to our home for the next 8 days the Peregrine Endeavour. We are welcomed by the warm humid air and the hospitality of the crew and shown to our cabins before the ship gets underway. The ship is spacious and comfortable with large common areas for all to enjoy. There are 8 cabins on two decks all on the upper decks with two twin beds, plenty of storage space, private facilities and large windows. This will be very comfortable indeed for the next 8 days.
We have our first of many briefings in the main lounge and learn that we will have our first excursion this very afternoon as the ship makes it’s way toward Caleta Tortuga. After lunch we will board the Panga boats and ride into Black Turtle Cove, a mangrove swamp on the north shore of Santa Cruz. This turns out to be a magnificent afternoon where we have the opportunity to see Galapagos Sharks, Golden Rays , our first of many Blue Footed Boobies, Pelicans and the spectacle of the Green Sea Turtles mating. We quietly watch them for most of the afternoon as the day slips away and the sky turns golden as the sun begins to go down. If everyday is going to be like this, what an incredible journey this is going to be.
We head back to the ship for our next briefing where we discuss what we have seen and they let us know what to expect for tomorrow. We will be heading to Rabida & Santiago Islands and what a full day it will be. We will have a wet landing on Rabida, two snorkeling opportunities and then another wet landing on Santiago Island. So much to look forward to, but now it’s time to relax and get to know everyone and enjoy the first of many great meals onboard the ship.
We awake to the sound of the bell, letting us know it’s time for a very early breakfast and then it’s off in the Panga to Rabida. We are very lucky and we see Sea Lions on the red-sand beach as well as many species of lizards and birds. We hike up, passing the flamingo lagoon, to a higher point on the island for a chance to see some of the different cacti and birds. Our first snorkel here is one of the best of the trip, we see so many fish and our first shark. The snorkeling around Rabida is fabulous. Lunch on the ship then another opportunity to Snorkel at Santiago. The current is stronger here but we are snorkeling with Penguins, Sea Lions and Sea Turtles, what a variety, it is amazing. An afternoon landing on Santiago winds up the day.
The next morning we wake to the bell and have a dry landing at Sullivan Bay. The lava fields are incredible, you can see where the lava river has run through the hills down toward the sea. Then across the bay around Pinnacle Rock to Bartolome where you can hike to the top of a once-active volcano. The view from the top is meant to be well worth the effort. We are unable to land to attempt this climb as the wind has really
picked up and it is far too rough for the panga boat to make it in against the rocks. We are able to snorkel around Pinnacle Rock following huge schools of fish and Sea Turtles, before we end our day and set sail for Puerto Ayora.
This morning we take the panga boats into Puerto Ayora and visit the Charles Darwin Research Station. There is plenty of time to explore the station and see the tortoise research and breeding programs and to meet “Lonesome George”. We have time in the town for shopping and soaking up the local culture before an afternoon journey high up into the hills where we visit the twins, a pair of large pit craters formed by magma. The walk through the hills is very enjoyable and a great opportunity for spotting all kinds of birds. We then get to see the Giant Tortoises in their natural habitat high in the hills. It is quite something to be so close to them and look into their eyes, they look almost prehistoric. We end the day in the hills with these gentle giants and head back to Puerto Ayora as the day is almost at an End.
We sailed through the night and we now awaken to journey into the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal. We are taken through an Interpretive Center here which explains a lot more of the history of the Galapagos. We then sail in the Peregrine Endeavour around Kicker Rock a giant rock in the shape of a sleeping lion, it rises 500 feet straight from the ocean, the bird life is amazing and the ocean is teaming with Sea Lions, Turtles & Rays. We then take the pangas to visit Cerro Brujo, one of the most beautiful stretches of beach I have every seen. It’s only sunbather’s are Sea Lion’s. The sand is powdery white and the sea is aqua and clear, it is picturesque. We are alone with the Sea Lions on this beach for hours as they swim through the surf with us. What an experience. The sun is setting as we leave this paradise and head back to the ship.
Another day of wonder awaits as we have a morning visit to the white-sand beaches at Bahia Gardner for an amazing opportunity to snorkel with some enormous Rays and watch & giant Sea Turtles feeding. Then we cruise around to the island of Espanola, the southernmost island of the Galapagos. This island is one of the highlights of the entire voyage. Everywhere we turn there is something more along the path and it simply takes our breath away. Colonies of Blue Footed Boobies, Nazca Boobies, Waved Albatross, Marine Iguana’s and more. It is a day I will never forget walking along the lava paths and marveling at the abundant endemic wildlife found here.
Our last full day and it doesn’t disappoint! A visit to Floreana and post office bay, then a short hike through to the lava tube deep underground that runs all the way back to the sea. We land at Punta Cormorant where there is an inland lake and the pink Flamingo’s await. Then across to the other side and a picture perfect beach where the Sea Turtles are floating in the waves waiting for nightfall to come ashore and lay their eggs in the hills. A final snorkel opportunity to the famous Devil’s crown a volcanic crater under water, filled with colorful fish. Tonight we sail for Baltra and prepare to depart the Galapagos. It has been the most amazing experience. We have one final briefing and a farewell dinner with the fabulous crew and guides aboard the Peregrine Endeavour.
Upon arrival in Baltra we bid farewell to the crew and our Naturalist guide and board our Tame flight for the two and half hour flight via Guayaquil to Quito. It will be with very fond memories that we leave the beautiful Galapgos Islands and fly into the Andes to start he next section of our Adventure. Upon arrival in Quito we are met by Peregrine Adventure’s and transferred to the beautiful Dann Carlton Hotel in central Quito where we have time to relax and unwind before heading out to enjoy a fabulous dinner in this beautiful city.
We meet our guide early for a tour of Quito, itself a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is the Capital of Ecuador and it was founded in the 16th century and stands on the ruins of an Inca City. This city has the best preserved , least altered historic centre in Latin America. The monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and the church and Jesuit College of La Compania, with their rich interiors are stunning examples of the colonial heart of this City, set high in the hills. This afternoon we are on our own to
explore a little further and just enjoy the atmosphere of this historic city.
The next morning we set off for a very scenic drive through the Andes ascending to 4060 metres before descending into the Amazon Basin. What an amazing array of climate and scenery changes all in one day. We have a chance to enjoy the scenery and the thermal baths at Papplacta from the really hot to the icy cold, it is a lovely way to break up the drive. Then on through Tena to arrive at Cotacocha Amazon Jungle Lodge before dark.
We are escorted to the lovely eco-friendly bungalows along the roaring river before dark. There is no electricity here but there are lanterns on the decks of our bungalows that will light our way. The jungle around us is alive with the sounds of nature, I like the sound, as long as it is outside of the bungalow.
Daylight brings a chance to explore the trails around the lodge a little bit better. The flowers are beautiful and the setting is really lovely. After breakfast we are loaded into a motorized canoe and taken up the river to visit the Animal Rescue centre, where we can see many types of natives animals and birds that we might not have had the chance to see any other way. We enjoy a boxed lunch along the side of the river where we have a chance to practice the blowpipe and visit a native community. On the way back we are able to see them pan for gold. Another great dinner and it’s off to sleep with the sounds of the jungle and the river rushing by.
This morning we leave our jungle lodge and travel through the Andes towards Banos. The journey takes us through some beautiful countryside, high mountain peaks and deep gorges. Along the way we take a short hike to one of Ecuador’s most beautiful waterfalls, “El Pailon del Diablo”. We arrive in the late afternoon at Banos, a small town in the Andes back-dropped by the magnificent Tungurahua Volcano. Half way up you can see The Adventure Spa Luna Runtun.
We have a free day today to explore this town, there are so many things you can do in Banos. Options include hiking, horseback riding, canyoning, white water rafting, going to the spa’s or just exploring the town. It is an adventure town with hot pools, shopping and lots of great restaurants. What a great place to have a free day.
Our last day takes us through some incredible scenery as we depart Banos and head through the mountains and passed some beautiful Volcano’s back towards Quito. We stop at Cotapaxi Volcano along the way, at 5897 metres, the volcano is the highest, active snow capped volcano in the world. Those feeling energetic, can climb to the Refuge (4800m). The air is thin but the view is superb on a clear Day!. It’s only about an hour to Quito from here where our tour comes to an end. It has been an amazing journey through Ecuador. The Galapagos and the charm of Quito and the Andes have amazed me, I feel very fortunate to have had this experience.
Heather Turner
Calgary
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